A good rule of thumb is to first read the instructions through once before you start! That way you have an idea of what you need to do and when. Put on your gloves. Mix it up! Mix the lightening powder and developer together so they form a paste. Divide the strands you want to highlight and get creative! Using the highlighter brush, apply the mixture from the roots downwards in a fluid motion, going over bits you miss.
Tip: Sometimes the highlighter brush comes equipped with a hook which helps you grab the strand you want to highlight easily and cleanly, without touching the rest of your hair. Depending on how much you want to lift your hair, wait for the appropriate amount of time. Now apply your after-color treatment. This usually needs to be left in for 3 minutes, but read the instructions of your particular highlight pack. Mix your bleach and peroxide into a thick, but blended consistency.
You do not want it to be too runny or soupy. Make sure your gloves are on even while mixing. If bleach touches the skin, it will burn. Bleach will stain your clothes too, so be sure to put your cape on for protection right away. A strand test is when you take a small sliver of hair and apply your color solution to see how it turns out before going all in. Before you do this, make sure your hair is clean. You want clean hair that's product-free so there isn't any buildup or barrier on your strands that inhibit penetration.
If you do a strand test, specifically with bleach, be sensitive to maintaining your foil placement. Try to get a good look at the strand to gauge if it's the level of brightness you were expecting, but be sure to leave your foil in place until it's time to remove and rinse.
The quickness or slowness of the chemical reaction will depend entirely on the individual," she explains. If you're doing a full bleach and tone, you can test your entire process on this strand. It sounds like a lot of extra work, and it is! But better to make the time and risk a single strand that can easily be hidden, versus going in at the roots that are most visible only to realize it was not at all what you expected. The key to checking your strand test according to Carhart is "minimal touching.
There are a lot of ways to physically highlight the hair. When you go to the salon, your stylist might use foils, they might do balayage with a brush , or they may even backcomb your ends before using foils and then stick you under a dryer for an hour.
None of that is going to happen for a home application. Techniques like balayage and backcombing are meant to lighten the ends and highlight all-over.
Plus, with those techniques, you don't need to have your ends touched up much at all. Your hair probably looks good. Remember: this tutorial is a last resort to save you between visits. You will only be dealing with your roots.
With that in mind, Carhart suggests using a foil technique for bleaching. The amount of time you leave it on for will be dependent upon your colorist's advice. But you can check the foils every minutes to see how it's lifting with minimal touching, of course.
Per Carhart's advice, you're going to start by clipping your hair into three sections: the two sides from the back of the ear, forward and the back. Even though you're sectioning all of your hair, "I would recommend doing as little as possible," she says. Though you'll only be doing a minimal amount of upkeep, keeping all of your hair sectioned keeps you organized and helps to avoid any unnecessary messes or unwanted mess-ups.
After your strand test has shown promise, you can do one or two layers of foils in the "T-zone" as KC suggests, right at the surface of your parting.
Sectioning is only meant to keep your work area clean and organized. Since every single process application is going to have unique directions of their own, and likely a user-friendly applicator, we're going to use this space to discuss how to achieve a highlight touch-up by using the foil method that Carhart suggested. You're going to start wherever your natural parting is, either on the side or down the middle. Place the thinly sectioned hairs onto your foil, and stretch them down taut against your head.
Use your brush to gather a scoop of your bleach mixture and firmly press it down onto your strands as if you were painting a thick stroke of acrylic paint with a paintbrush. You want it to be rich and thick but still spread out into an even layer. You shouldn't need too much since the sections you're working with are so fine. When it comes time to apply around the hairline, take a fine slice of hair out using your tail comb and weave the same way Carhart advised with the parting.
Then, place a foil against your forehead or cheek, and lay the finely sliced hair on top of the foil. If your application isn't saturated, you'll have a splotchy, spotty-looking bleach job. While Carhart thinks that the hairline is the easiest to do yourself, she warns that it still requires some serious hand-eye coordination. The most important part of applying your bleach is to ensure it does not touch the scalp.
Any hard to reach areas, Carhart simply says, "Don't do them. The toner's job is to neutralize the intense yellow shade that appears from bleaching and make it look more natural. This is the secret sauce that eliminates brassiness and other unwanted tones to help you reach your desired outcome. When it comes to your toner, "keep it simple," says Carhart. If your hair is blonde, this is much easier. You wait until the highlights are a pretty color and then you take the foils off.
Carhart tell us that the "sweet spot" for darker brunettes is shades lighter than their natural color. The safer, low volume peroxide that we're working with for these at-home touch ups will only lift you shades lighter.
So if you've been highlighting for a while and working with your colorist to go blonder from a super dark natural base color, you're better off resorting to throwing on a baseball cap and hiding those roots. If you're a dark brunette that only needs a light touch-up at the roots, just be sure not to overlap the bleach onto your previous color job as Carhart warned before.
The overlap could cause a funky color spot, or potential breakage. The potential of leaving the bleach on too long could also create a problem for your toning approach. But be warned if you're using foils at home: "It's also a heat conductor, so when you wrap hair in a foil, it lightens faster. The bristles will pick up just the right amount of dye, and will spread it easily and not too perfectly onto each section during the application.
Applying highlights to curly hair? Wear gloves and apply the color with your fingers to individual curls. For curly girls, she also recommends avoiding the center and back of the hair, where the curl textures are tighter.
Instead, she says to "keep the highlights in the crown, face framing and the underneath sections behind both ears. Also key? Part your hair as you normally do, so that you can clearly see which strands are face-framing a side-parter will highlight differently than a center-parter. Then, follow these steps:. As you work your way to the middle of your head, gradually thin out the sections to half an inch. By the time you get to underlayers and back, apply the color to quarter-inch pieces.
Most importantly, don't be too strict about placement. The most natural-looking highlights aren't evenly spaced or perfectly symmetrical. Leave the dye on for the amount of time determined in your strand test the pieces you did first will also be finished first , then rinse each section well. Give your hair a good shampoo, then use a deep conditioner.
Leave it on for at least five minutes. If after all the steps above, your highlight is a bit red, look for a green toner to make it more neutral brown. Or if your blonde highlights are too icy, a gold toner will help add some warmth.
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